Difficulty IV-V
(at moderate levels, class IV boaters OK)
Length 66
km
Avg Gradient 10
m/km (55 fpm)
Portages 14
(~4 mandatory)
Start Turuachi
(2080 m)
End Rio
Verde confluence (1420 m)
Time 3-4
days
Shuttle paved
to put-in; for take-out, see Logistics
Rafts No
Character Spectacular
wild river with many gorges
DESCRIPTION: Rio Turuachi is the upper branch or headwaters of Rio Fuerte, the largest river in northwestern Mexico. A trip down it is perhaps the easiest way to enter Barranca Sinforosa, and stands as a great expert run unto itself. An ideal put-in is located where a paved highway crosses the upper section of the river at the town of Turuachi. From here it is 67 km down to the confluence with Rio Verde. The initial 23 km are class I-II and pass the pueblo of Chinatœ, an alternate put-in if the flow is low. About 5 km past Chinatœ, the gradient increases dramatically to 25 m/km (130 fpm) and the river starts going through numerous class IV and V rapids, requiring many scouts and occasional portages. Although the gradient soon eases to ~15 m/km (80 fpm) and portages abate, challenging rapids continue. The highlight and potential danger spot on the run is the main Barranca Turuachi (Turuachi Gorge), an unforgettable vertical-walled section containing several unportageable class IV+ rapids. Once through here, class III-IV rapids continue to the confluence with Rio Verde, where the flow increases roughly 50% and the Barranca Sinforosa proper begins.
This
river starts out in the ranching areas of Turuachi and Chinatœ, but soon enters
very isolated rugged barranca territory. Along the lower sections, we passed
several Tarahumara families camped along the river, and though we didnÕt
initiate contact with most of them, they did not seem too concerned about
gringos floating by. The isolation
also makes ideal areas to grow the major cash crop of the area - mota. If you run into such fields, it is advised
that you donÕt pick any, and make all efforts not to run into problems with
locals tending such plants. There
are many side canyons that would be interesting to explore, especially in the
gorgy sections. Some of the more open side canyons contain trails that would be
fun to explore.
Although it may sound like this
section has a lot of portages, they actually are very manageable considering
most are at river level and very easy, and dispersed over 3-4 days. Hard core class V boaters with optimal water
levels may even lower the portages to ~4, though due to the remoteness of the
run, extra caution is advised. A
large number of rapids require scouts and are technically challenging. Overall,
this section is highly recommended, especially since it is the best way to get
into the majestic Barranca Sinforosa.
LOGISTICS:
Put-in: The town of Turuachi can be reached via paved road from
Hidalgo del Parral (~4 hr; 180 km) or Guachochi (~5 hr; ~250 km). There is a military checkpoint at the
junction of the roads from Parral and Guachochi, as well as a few small stands
to buy food. A hired driver might
have problems returning through the checkpoint in a USA vehicle, so inform them
of what youÕre trying to do as you pass.
Basically on the highways, follow the signs toward Guadalupe y Calvo,
which is at the end of the paved road ~40 km past Turuachi. There are a couple
of small hotels in El Vergel that you could stay at the night before putting-in
including ÒLos VergelitosÓ (~150 pesos/night). From El Vergel itÕs ~65 km/1.5 hr to Turuachi. If the water level is too low at
Turuachi, you can try putting-in downstream at Chinatœ. To get there, turn
north off the highway about ~20 km east of Turuachi at a place called La
Catedr‡l. ItÕs ~25 km of dirt road to Chinatœ.
Take-out:
Anyone contemplating floating Rio Turuachi should plan on continuing
downstream through the magnificent Barranca Sinforosa downstream, and arrange
to end the trip either at Guerachi, San Miguel, or Tubares. We continued past
Tubares and across Presa Huites (50 km reservoir) to the train stop at Palo
Dulce and took the train back up to Creel. I had hired a shuttle driver in Creel to return our vehicle
there after dropping us off at Turuachi (1500p). Another fairly straightforward
shuttle would be to find a driver in Turuachi or Guadalupe y Calvo to pick you
up at Guerachi in either your vehicle or theirs (4WD needed). However, probably the nicest way to do
this shuttle is to arrange a flight to get back upstream from Tubares or San
Miguel. There are a couple pilots
in Guachochi that could do this for you (and maybe some others in Guadalupe y
Calvo), for probably ~$800USD; maybe less if the pilot is based in Guadalupe y
Calvo. Ideally, youÕd want to stop
by there and make sure your group+kayaks fit, meet the pilot, and pay. Apparently there is an airstrip in
Turuachi, but youÕd want to verify with the pilot (if not, use Guadalupe y
Calvo Ð itÕd be easy to get a ride over to Turuachi from there). Another possible shuttle is a potential
dirt road to near the end of Rio Turuachi that arrives at Arroyo Guasachique
from the southwest. This road
continue to ~10 km downstream of the Rio Verde confluence before fording the
rio and going up to the highway near Guachochi. We didnÕt see this road on our
trip, but we didnÕt explore too much for it either.
0 km Turuachi. A good launch spot is just
below the bridge on river-right. You can drive down to this point. On the other side of the bridge is a
small store. You may be able to
call them and get a sense of how much water is in the river before making the
long drive here.
0.0-23.0km Class
I-II with Shallows.
Often slow going in this section, especially if the water is low. The riverbed is often slickrock but
wide and shallow in places. We had
about 5 cms (150 cfs) at the put-in and didnÕt have to get out of our kayaks at
all to get through, but did have to knuckle ourselves past a few spots. At high
water there would probably be some great surf waves.
5.5 km Agua
Fria (RR). Some
more homesteads here where a sizeable arroyo enters on RR (Arroyo San
Antonio). Only class I down to
this point. Downstream is a nice
slightly gorgy section with many good camps and class IIs.
18.0 km (1) Chinatœ
(RL). You know
youÕre arriving at Chinatœ when you see the dirt road on RR and you soon go
under a bridge. The main village is downstream <1 km on RL. There are some school-type buildings,
orchards, and probably small stores. On our 2005 trip, it took us about 2.5 hrs to paddle
the 18 km to this point.
20.0km(3.1) Arroyo
Las Iglesias (RR). This
arroyo, like Arroyo San Antonio 15 km upstream, drains the 3110 m Cerro Las
Iglesias. It was flashing when we
passed, delaying some locals from crossing on the trail, and more than doubled
the flow in the river (5-10 cms).
However, we soon paddled past all the flash-flood water. Class III rapids begin downstream.
23.5-28km(6.5-10) Bottom
Drops Out (IV-V)P6. This steep section of 25 m/km (130 fpm) requires many
scouts of numerous class IV-V rapids and some sieves. At least 2 of the
portages are mandatory. Some
highlights are mentioned below.
24.0km(7.0) Warp
I (IV-). This is
one of the first bigger rapids you encounter, located at the 2000 m
contour. The rapid is a sliding
drop of about 1 vertical meter on RL.
Below this are a couple more class III-IVs before you get to the first
class V.
24.4km(7.4) Not
Worth It (IV-V): P#1. Although
the runout was OK, the top drop (middle or RL channels) looked like a potential
pin or backender spot, so we both portaged RR (easy). Probably safer at higher water. There is an overhanging
campspot 10 m above on RR.
24.8km(7.8) Sieves
(P2): P#2-3. The first of these is a mandatory portage of moderate difficulty
around an unrunnable ugly sieve (pict). We ran a little stuff below this before
coming up to a class V+ boulder blockade that we portaged on RL again.
25.2km(8.2) Cave
Route (P). P#4 Here
we decided on the relatively easy portage RL through a cave-like spot created
by giant boulders on RL. We walked over our boats that were used to bridge a
part of the tunnel, though it might have been possible to stay in the boats for
it all.
25.2km(8.2) Log
block (P). P#5 A
log blocked the only potentially runnable 2 m drop on RR, thus making another
mandatory portage. Go on RR over
driftwood deposited 10 m above the river(!). Good section of class IV-V below
here. We portaged one class V that
didnÕt look so good on closer inspection on RR. (P#6) Runnable and mostly boat scoutable below.
26.2km(9.2) Camp
#1 (RR). It was
getting late (7:30 pm) and there was some flat ground 5 m above the river
amongst the pines, oaks, and a little used trail on RR here. In the morning on
a hike I saw that there was a nicer beach camp on RL about 200 m downstream (though
not as high above the river). Also
farther down was a bat cave and a milpa on RR with a small hovel. The higher muddy water had caught up to
us before we stopped to camp, and the river continued to stay relatively high
(~12 cms) and muddy the following day.
26.6km(9.6) Slot
(V). P#7 This
class V slot was just left of a huge boulder and was a little too exciting for
us. Easy portage on RR.
26.7-29.0 Fun
Section (IV-V). This
is a great section of class IV-V runnable rapids here, shown in the edited
video (Ò130 fpm sectionÓ). The
first two shots in the video are of a rapid by a wall on RR. Downstream, just before the 180o
bend to the right, is the third video shot where Alex gets pushed to the
right.
28.3km(11.3) 180o Bend Plop (V). Just around the 180o
bend is the ÒploppingÓ 2 m falls that we both ran, but Alex went a little to
far left and ended up landing fairly hard on rocks (pict and video). Would be better with higher water
levels.
30.0km(13.0) Alcove (RR). In a flat relatively easy bedrock
section of the river you pass a huge unmistakable alcove on RR as you round a
left bend. It is a little far from the river but would be well worth the effort
of dragging boats up to camp due to the safe high nature and protection from
rain. ThereÕs plenty of flat areas
and also an Anasazi-type granary structure in the middle (empty). The place reminded me of Redwall Cavern
in the Grand Canyon, but lacks the huge sand beach and is not quite as large.
30.3km(13.3) ÒNot NiceÓ (V). Amongst many good boat-scoutable rapids in this 80 fpm section, we portaged one class V very easily on RR. Our lunchspot was a little downstream of it RL 30.6 across from a 100m high spire on RR extending up from the river.
32.2km(15.2) Pichique (RR; 2.5 km class II section). Homesteads and milpas located where an arroyo enters
on RR. A family stood by their
house watching us as we passed by.
In this region starting about 1 km upstream of Pichique and continuing
for 2.5 km are many good campspots and relatively easy rapids in an open
section of the canyon.
33.7km Flat
Rock Sieve (V). P#8. After
the flat stretch is a long class II-III lead-in to a III-IV drop, which looks
OK until a little closer inspection reveals that it would push you to the left
into a sieve. Since it was questionable whether we could avoid getting pushed
in, we portaged (very easy) on RL on a flat rock.
34-38km Fun
Stuff (IVs). Below
the Flat Rock portage is a class II, then a class III-IV slide that backenders
Alex in the edited video. This section continues with numerous boat scoutable
class III-V rapids for a couple kilometers (including a couple very easy
portages mentioned below).
34.7km Oreachi
(V). Located
where an arroyo enters from RL, I did a boof move at the top right of this
rapid. When Alex tried, his nose went up but his stern went down and he got
stuck. I was proceeding to run
back up to help him out when he simply came out of his boat and portaged it
down.
~35km Sieve
(P). P#9 Downstream
of the Oreachi rapid is a very easy portage, mandatory at ~15 cms but probably
runnable with more water.
37km(20) Broach
(IV-V). P#10 Below
Oreachi were several more boat-scoutable drops, then a rapid where I broached
on RL. I was in a stable position,
but was not budging off, and if I popped the skirt, the boat would have
flooded. Alex quickly stopped upstream in a bit precarious spot and ran down to
help nudge me off. Thanks Alex! We
did a short in-boat portage for the remainder of the rapid on RR (P#10). Unfortunately, Alex left his
boat in a spot where water was trickling in, so when he got back up to it, it
was half full. Later at camp he
found out that his drybag leaks a little. Luckily he had his clothes and
sleeping bag in trash bags, so they didnÕt get wet! We portaged another open class V below this rapid on RL (P#11).
39km(22) Gorge
Falls (V). P#12 At
this class V rapid the river drops into an intimidating gorge with flat moving
water that you canÕt get out of, thus prompting a scout. Fortunately, it is easy to walk along
the granite above the gorge to see downstream more than you care to walk, since
you soon see that all is fine as it opens up down around the bend to the left.
We portaged the main rapid on RL, using a rope to lower the boats to a point
where we could run the last drop.
The gorge opens up around the bend and then rapids start up again. We
did a cheat in-boat portage on RR in one of these, then a bona fide portage on
RR (P#13) of
another ÒopenÓ class V with a hole and tricky currents.
40.5km Rope
Falls (V+). P#14 A
very difficult rapid with extreme pin potential abuts a wall on RL. The portage route on RR is moderately
involved since you must drag boats up a flat granite rock, and then lower them
about 7 m to the pool below with a rope.
It was getting late for us at this point, so we were anxious to get
through and find a camp.
Downstream were ~ 3 more class IV-V rapids (one side scout) before we
came to a nice campspot.
~41km No
Problemas (IV). This
was the rapid requiring a side scout.
On river left itÕs a fun slide dropping almost 2 m vertical that can be
approached in many ways (seen in edited video).
41.5km(24.5) Arroyo (RL). [Camp #2.] A very nice camp well above the
river in an open section of canyon among grass flats. The camp is just
downstream of the arroyo on RL past a rapid that goes by a wall on RR. In the morning I followed a trail that
followed the arroyo up for a ways.
Great views of the river and canyon from some abandoned milpas above our
camp.
~42km Punchbowl
(RL). An
interesting stop at an excavated tiny drainage punchbowl in the side of the
canyon about 3 rapids down from the camp.
There are some fine beaches here too, possibly making another good camp
(though not great to escape a flash flood).
42-51km Boat
Scoutable Fun (III-IV). In this section there are tons of boat-scoutable class III-IV rapids
for many kilometers. We got out to
scout one right turn rapid (both Alex and I are shown running it in the video)
downstream of the Punchbowl since we couldnÕt see the bottom. Also there are a lot of Tarahumara in
this area Ð we passed at least two families camped by the river.
47.7km Arroyo
Cebadilla (RR). A large arroyo that drains the north
side of Cerro las Iglesias enters on RR.
Mean August flow ~60 cfs (~10% of the river). There is a nice beach at the mouth that would make an ideal
camp. When we passed, the water in
the arroyo was fairly clear green. This would be a nice hike as well. We may have taken a swim in some pools
in the arroyo.
50.4-55.5km Turuachi
Gorge. Vertical walls rise directly from the
river in one of the most amazing stretches of river in the Sierra
Tarahumara. Rapids are a joy to
run and the initial ones are still all boat-scoutable. However, farther down are several class
IV-V rapids, the most prominent mentioned below:
52.0km SuperSlide
(IV). This is
one of the first bigger rapids you encounter, located at . The rapid is a long sliding drop of
about 3 vertical meters along the wall on RR. (see video)
52.2km SecondSlide
(IV). The
following rapid, which also has a slide at the end, but not as long. Just
downstream of it the walls close in tighter, and there is another class IV we
scouted before emerging into a pool (shown in video).
52.7km ÒDulceÓ
(IV). After the
pool is another rapid that deserves to be scouted as well, with some initial
III+ drops and then a final sliding boof on the left. (video) I said ÒsweetÓ as Alex was coming down.
53.0km Cinco
(IV). This fifth
drop in the gorge has a wider channel on RL that we ran. Pool below. Past here is an amazing beach
camp on RR,
where the gorge opens up some, followed by some class IIIs. There is another great beach camp on RL
downstream a bit farther.
54.0km Rincon
(III-IV). At a
90o right bend in the river are some fun sliding rapids. An interesting place to get out and
explore. Just downstream of here is another unmistakable entrance into a high
walled gorge again Ð even more intimidating than the former.
54.3km Plunge
(IV). Another
sliding bedrock rapid with a hole to punch at the bottom. (video)
54.4km Pared-a-Pared
(IV+). Looking
at this rapid from above it is obvious that at higher water you might not get
to scout it. At the medium flow we had it was easy to stop on RL and walk on
the bedrock to look. Basically it
is a class V drop into with a hole to punch on RR where most of the current is,
while on RL there is a vertical 2 m falls without any consequences. If youÕre in here at high water and
canÕt stop, just float over on far RL.
A pool below with sloping bedrock up both sides leads to the next
horizon line.
54.5km Recodo
(V). An open
drop of about 2 m but with pin potential.
As I went over right of center I felt my elbow (ÒrecodoÓ) bump on a rock
in the drop, invisible to us as we scouted. Alex portaged on RR.
54.6km Unportageable
#1 (IV). Just
downstream of ÒRecodoÓ the walls get more vertical directly from the river
precluding any portaging. We proceeded with more trepidation. The next rapid
was difficult
to scout and probably impossible to portage. We ran this one on RL (see video Ð can also see Recodo
above). The RR channel also is
fine but may have a sticky hole.
54.8km Unportageable
#2 (IV+). Another
long ÒineluctableÓ rapid that drops about 4 m total, but all looked pretty
good. There was a log on the far RL by the wall before the river squeezed
between walls only 2-3 m apart. It was difficult to see what was below the
pinch, but glimpses from upstream looked clean. S the name implies, it would be
almost impossible to portage this one. We were out and scouting on RR. Alex
took some sneaks on far RR in the main part of the rapid down to an eddy on RR
above the Òmust-runÓ pinch. I ran the first part, but then stopped short of it
all and took the same sneak that Alex did on. We were concerned that the pinch might ÒtacoÓ the kayaks if
they were sideways going into it. Alex went first with no problems and I
followed. We celebrated
immediately below floating through the calm water in the vertical-walled
grandeur. The gorge opens up a lot
after this point. Whew!
55-67km Fun
(III-IV). This
section is mostly class II-III, boat-scoutable and fast, but still with a few
class IVs in there to make things livelier. We did have a short portage on RL at km ~56.5 around a nasty
rapid going through some huge boulders. This was my first (P#15) and AlexÕs second portage for
the day. There might be a line
through it at a 2 m falls by one of the boulders but the landing looked
complicated with a flat rock on the right and the water pushing you into it. The first strangler figs make their
appearance around km 62. At km
62.3 is Arroyo
Guasachique
that enters from RL. Here a trail
extends on river left downstream 13 km and another goes up the mountain on RR a
little below the arroyo. Also in
this section we side-scouted one other rapid at km ~64.5 with high broach
potential (class V). Some beaches in this section had a lot of cow dung on
them. All in all it took us about
7 hr to reach the Rio Verde confluence.
67.0km Rio Verde (RR). This river adds about 50% of the flow that Rio Turuachi has. When we passed it was green clearer warmer water as the name implies (compared to the muddy water we had on Rio Turuachi). A little upstream we passed some milpas. Downstream were mota fields near the river, as well as wild mota growing in places. There are a couple small beach camps right at the confluence on RR that would permit a hike/exploration up the rio. The added water made going a lot nicer, as we didnÕt bump on rocks much anymore.