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Río Usumacinta , the "Sacred Monkey River", is a beautiful huge jungle river flowing through the heart of the classical Mayan world in a deep impressive "Gran Cañón" but is now threatened with dams. Experience the river yourself on a rafting/kayaking expedition as we tour Yáxchilan and Piedras Negras, camp on giant pristine beaches, listen to howler monkeys, and navigate the big-water rapids of the Gran Cañon de San José. This is a family-friendly as well as an ideal first trip - no experience required. |
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The Usumacinta river trip is one of the classics in the world and not to be missed. Relax in the hot winter sunshine on giant beaches, swim in warm clean water, traipse through the tropical jungle to spot toucans and jaguar tracks, shreik from the dinosaur-like gaspy roars of howler monkeys, visit two major Mayan arqueological sites, and paddle through a some exciting whitewater in the canyon. Everyone is welcome: kayakers, IKers, oarsmen, and raft passengers. We plan to have several rafts to support our group, so even beginners can take a shot at paddling a kayak. We'll have at least two local Chol-speaking guides along with us for positive interactions and safety. The pace is relaxed, with one layover day planned. We have a full set of rafts, catarafts, kayaks and inflatable kayaks available and guides to cater to all groups needs. On some trips, it may be possible to join a Lacanjá trip beforehand for an amazing ~14-day Mayan jungle adventure! Show your appreciation of a free-flowing Río Usumacinta and oppose the five dams that continue to be pursued by CFE (Comisión Federal de Electricidad). Please sign this petition against the dams and spread the word to garner more opposition! |
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Even if you don't join a raft trip, help support our campaign to Save Río Usumacinta and train local river guides with a donation. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Río Usumacinta is the most voluminous river in all of Mexico and Central America and forms part of the border between Chiapas and Guatemala. The river averages ~3000 cms (~100,000 cfs) in the rainy season and 800-1500 cms (30,000-50,000 cfs) in the drier winter months. Although it is generally flat moving water, there are a number of class II and III rapids, at least four of which rate III or III+. Due to the reliable big water, canyons, Mayan ruins, rapids, warm winter temperatures and other interesting aspects along the river, it became one of the most sought-after rafting journeys in the world starting in the 1970s, and a prime winter destination of many Grand Canyon guides. The rafting industry ended during the Guatemalan civil war when militants took refuge in the jungles near the banks of the river and sometimes robbed rafting groups. Now well after the war, the dangers have subsided. Guatemalan soldiers and caretakers stationed by Piedras Negras keep the region safe. SierraRios has run dozens of raft/kayak expeditions on this river without problem starting in 2010 - we are the only outfitter to offer trips. See a video of what the river is like at VIDEO. See summary slideshows of some of these trips at: Slides 2017a ; Slides 2017b(kids) ; Usumacinta2011a and Usumacinta2011b. See an article Rocky wrote about one of the recent descents published in American Whitewater. Read some comments from participants. [For an excellent book discussing all aspects of this river including the assaults, rapids, the Maya, trade routes, ruins, plans for damming, and wildlife, see Christopher Shaw's Sacred Monkey River.] |
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TENTATIVE ITINERARY (Dec-Jun): DAY 0: fly into Villahermosa; transport to Palenque (1.6 hr); night in Hotel Lacandonia or other DAY 1: This is the departure day. We rendezvous at 8 am at the storehouse (or pick you up at your hotel) and take the van for the 3.5-hr drive to Bonampak (with stop for brunch), then visit this Mayan site with its incredible murals. We then arrive to Frontera Corozal (our put-in on the Mexican side of the Usumacinta) and continue rigging, adjust kayaks, have a safety talk, and then a restaurant dinner. Camp or stay in bungalow. Restaurant dinner. 0 km DAY 2: We will spend the morning paddling the 20 km to the magnificent Mayan ruins of Yaxchilán where we'll have lunch and set up camp (we have a special arragnement with the park). The afternoon is spent touring the ruins of Yaxchilán. We'll have a traditional Mayan/Mexican feast for dinner. Tamales/burritos. ~20 km DAY 3: In the morning we'll paddle through the first big rapid of the trip (Chicozapote; class II-III), have lunch and stop at Big Springs where we'll refill water, bathe and swim, and hopefully make it down to the giant El Playón beach for camp. Steak/salmon. ~45 km DAY 4: In the morning we'll do a hike into the jungle to a pristine lagoon and go for a swim. After lunch back at El Playón, we'll continue downstream past Arroyo Jerusalen and through the Rapidos Caribe, then stop and swim at the Cenote Tumbado spring just before arriving to Piedras Negras camp. Fajitas/burritos. DAY 5: LAYOVER. We'll check in with the military and caretakers at Piedras Negras and spend the morning hiking around the ruins, and in the afternoon either do some more hiking (to the dry cenote) or playing in the water, practicing kayak rolls and other paddling techniques, or simply relaxing in camp. Lasagna or enchiladas; ~15 km DAY 6: We'll pass El Porvenir then enter a class II gorge with Cola del Diablo (III) and several other rapids, and arrive at and explore the beautiful travertine waterfalls of Cascada Busiljá that drop directly into the Usumacinta. After lunch, we continue downstream, sometimes stopping to explore/kayak the final few drops on Río Chocoljá (if there are interested kayakers on the trip; to do so requires a paddle/hike upstream). We then enter the main Gran Cañon de San José and paddle through several big rapids: La Linea (III+), Baluarte (II-III) and Whirlpool (III-). We'll set up camp a more open section before the next gorge and big rapids. Fajitas / fish or other. ~35 km DAY 7: We'll paddle through the final part of the Gran Cañon San José with two of the biggest rapids the river has to offer: San Josécito (III) and San José (III+), and then the final rapid, White Wall (II-). The remainder of the river has no rapids as it goes through the final gorge at Boca del Cerro, but we may still stop at a crystal clear side stream for a swim and/or explore one of a few caves where the gigantic Boca del Cerro/Tenosique dam is to be built. We'll then arrive at the take-out around mid-day, de-rig, clean and dry items (~2 hr), and drive back to Palenque (1.5 hr). Restaurant Palenque; ~30 km Return to Palenque. Folks will generally stay at a hotel in Palenque or in cabañas at El Panchán. Optional excursions to Palenque ruins and/or Agua Azul often are scheduled the days before or after the main river trip. The group usually gathers for a restaurant dinner the day after the trip at Don Mucho's to listen to live music, dance, and enjoy the fire show. It is possible for participants to depart. DAY 8: PALENQUE RUINS: Often folks like to relax the morning after the expedition, but usually this day we plan a visit to the magnificent ruins of Palenque either in the morning or the afternoon. DAY 9: SHUMULJÁ/AGUA AZUL: Most visitors to Palenque also plan to visit the Cascadas Agua Azul, which are incredible to see especially when the water is blue-turquoise. We generally like to arrange a raft run of Ríos Shumuljá (class III) this day for some fun turquoise-water rapids and to visit the final most impressive falls of Agua Azul. DAY 10+ (Optional): CHOCOLJÁ: Other rivers in the area can be paddled as day-trips, including the fabulous class III+ Salto Chocoljá section, Upper Tulijá (class IV), lower Tulijá (class IV), Chacamax (class III), Lacanjá (III-IV), Paxilhá (IV-V), main Chocoljá (III), Bascán (III-IV falls), Corostic (IV-V), or Jataté (IV+). We will help arrange to get you back to the Villahermosa airport if you need to, but it's not covered in the price of the trip. It is a 1 hr 40min drive. Generally, a taxi is ~1400p; ADO offers a convenient bus service at ~400p and there are collectivos that can take you there for ~300p most times of the day. Palenque (PQM) airport is small and only serviced by Interjet to/from Mexico City (flights 2X per week - generally Wednesdays and Saturdays). If you're based in Mexico City, this is a convenient option. If you are flying from the USA or Europe, it is much easier to find flights into Villahermosa. Villahermosa (VSA) airport is a 1.6 hr drive ride from Palenque. VSA is serviced by United, American, AeroMexico, Volaris, VivaAerobus and other Mexico-based carriers (also as partner airlines). If several of the group are arriving at VSA airport, we can arrange to pick you up (a little extra fee), but you can always get a taxi from there to Palenque (~1200p) or take the ADO bus service (~350p; generally departs every hour from 7am - 9pm). If you have a vehicle, you can meet us in Palenque and possibly get a discount for use of your vehicle in shuttle. Tuxtla Gutiérrez (TGZ) airport is approximately a 5 hr drive from Palenque. The route between Tuxtla and Palenque passes San Cristóbal de las Casas, a charming colonial city very popular with tourists, and the Cascadas Agua Azul, another of the major tourist destinations in the region. Cancún (CUN) airport has international flights from just about everywhere, is serviced by most international US carriers, and generally is the most inexpensive to fly to. Although it is pretty far away (~10 hr by bus to get to Palenque), you would get to see more of the attractions on the Yucatán peninsula, including it's famed beaches, cenotes, and various post-classic Mayan sites (Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, and Tulum, for example) before or after the trip. If you have a group arriving to Cancún, we can arrange a special van to take you to some of the peninsular sites and then to Palenque and the river. A trip will definitely occur with a minimum of 4 full-paying participants. Other launch dates can be arranged for groups of 4 or more. Weekly trips in the main sesaon are generally scheduled for departure on Sunday.
To make a deposit and/or payment, click PAYMENTS.
TRIP LEADERS (one or more of the following individuals): The policy we will take on the trip is that the trip leader will have main authority when it comes to decisions for the group regarding river progress, camp, safety, etc. If a participant has overestimated their ability to row or kayak, he/she may be mandated to ride on a raft and/or be assessed other penalties. You should have an easygoing personality and expect to socialize with a diverse group for the week of the trip. If you are concerned about this issue, consider arranging a special private trip - or if you're an experienced group of boaters, utiliizing our Outfitting Services. (1) Rocky Contos, often the trip leader, is fluent in Spanish, explored every river in Mexico, solo kayaked the entire Jataté-Lacantún-Usumacinta in early 2010, reopened the river by working with local communities, successfully led raft/kayak trips down the Usumacinta in Dec2011, Jan2012, Dec2012, and many more times in the following years (a total of 15X by 2021), co-authored the guidebooks to Chiapas and the Sierra Madre Occidental, and is preparing guidebooks for the rest of Mexico. He producedand narrated an Usumacinta video, as well as AguaAzul and the Shumuljá. In Mexico, Rocky has ~110 probable first descents covering ~8,000 km of river and ~55,000 m of drop and has paddled every major river in the country. He has paddled over 200 multi-day journeys on rivers, with dozens in the range of 5-22 days. Rocky discovered the most distant source of the Amazon in 2012 and completed the first source-to-sea descent of the river, including the full Mantaro. Rocky is trained in swiftwater rescue (RRC-Pro from SierraRescue3) and WFR (Wilderness First Responder). He is the primary organizer of all trips and if present, will either be safety kayaking or rowing/captaining a raft. For more info on Rocky, see Bio_Rocky. (2) German Arroyo (Mexican guide), sometimes trip leader or co-leader, is a bilingual raft guide from Mexico City who has paddled the Usumacinta >20 times (as of 2021) and co-guided or organized several SierraRios Usumacinta trips. He will usually be rowing a raft, but can also kayak the river if an appropriate oarsperson takes the helm of his raft. (3) Miyaya Urbina (Mexican guide), is a Spanish-speaking raft guide from Palenque who has guided the Usumacinta >40 times, mostly in the 1990s, and co-guided several SierraRios Usumacinta trips. She was the first female Mexican river guide in the country. Miyaya and her family have lived in Palenque for generations and were some of the original helpers for the Usu trips in the 1980s-1990s. She is the main logistics coordinator for all trips and stores gear at the Palenque house and a nearby ranch. Miyaya will often be driving shuttle and helping out at the start and end of trips. If guiding, Miyaya will usually be rowing a raft or cataraft. (4) René Lopez (Local Chol guide). René is Sunción's nephew and also did his first trip in 2012. He doesn't speak English, but rows well, is a hard worker, is employed at the Yaxchilán reserve where is found much of the year, and is happy to talk to you in Spanish. So far (Jul2016), René has helped guide 8 trips down the Usumacinta. . (5) Sunción Lopez (Local Chol guide). Sunción will generally help guide and/or lead all future Usumacinta trips. Sunción came on a January 2013 Usumacinta trip and learned much about the river and rowing. He was a natural. His Chol bilinguality and familiarity with residents along the river adds safety to any trip and he provides additional information on points of interest and the flora/fauna of the jungle. Since that first trip, he's helped guide 8 more Usumacinta trips, a Lacanjá-Lacantún trip, Shumuljá trips, has paddled several rivers in central Mexico, and continues to aspire to be a great guide. Read more about Sunción here. Everyone joining SierraRios trips should have an interest in river conservation and help us on our mission to document the river further, talk to residents, publicize the planned dams, and help train local guides. We welcome competent boaters. If you want to kayak through the rapids, you should have some prior training, experience and a solid roll. If you want to row a raft, you must have adequate experience rowing class III rivers. Comparable or more difficult rivers are the Colorado (Grand Canyon), Main Salmon, Green (Deso/Gray), and Rogue. In general, the pace is relaxed with layover days planned, but there may be some long days on the water. The policy we will take on the trip is that the trip leader will have main authority when it comes to decisions for the group regarding river progress, camp, etc. If a participant has overestimated their ability to row or kayak, he/she may be mandated to ride on a raft and/or be assessed other penalties. Trip leader decisions can be vetoed by a majority vote of the group. Any participant always has the right to leave the trip if they so desire, but no refund is due. Below are averages for Tenosique (at end of the trip, though it's often slightly cooler with more rain in Frontera):
BUGS WATER LEVELS Historical flow hydrographs for the Usumacinta and some upstream tributaries can be viewed at the following links: Historical flow: Usumacinta (Boca del Cerro)
FOOD/ALCOHOL/WATER
VOICE OPPOSITION TO THE TENOSIQUE DAM! Sign a petition against the dams. Send your comments to Presidente Enrique Peña Nieto. A sample letter is below (the one I sent): ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- .A FEW COMMENTS FROM PAST PARTICIPANTS:
"Hi Rocky, Thanks again for a sensational and unforgettable trip. You did such an amazing job organizing. I especially am psyched to have met you and to have another kayak friend/guide to work with. You guiding me off the waterfall was a big highlight... Erik." [Jan2012 Usumacinta trip]
"The trip on the Usumacinta was great, I am very happy that I paddled the river and did not sit on the raft." [2013a Usumacinta trip]
"Thanks for everything, Rocky! What a blast that all was. When's our next trip?!! -Suzy" [Jan2012 Usumacinta trip]
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